Top 10 Plumbing Questions Answered

This is typically caused by a broken "dip tube" (which allows cold water to mix directly with hot water at the top of the tank) or heavy sediment buildup at the bottom of the tank, which forces the lower heating element to heat mud before it can heat the water. In electric units, a burned-out lower element is also a frequent culprit.

Tankless systems are fantastic, offering endless hot water and saving physical space. However, in Iowa, our incoming groundwater in the winter is freezing cold. The tankless unit has to work incredibly hard to heat 40°F water up to 120°F instantly. You will need a high-BTU gas unit, and the installation (including venting and larger gas lines) often makes the initial cost 2-3 times higher than a traditional tank. The ROI timeline is long.

A standard builder-grade sump pump has a reliable lifespan of about 5 to 7 years. Because they are mechanical devices submerged in water, they will eventually fail. Given the $10,000+ cost of a flooded finished basement, we highly recommend replacing the primary pump every 7 years and always having a water-powered or battery-backup system installed.

If it's isolated to one sink, it's likely a clogged aerator full of calcium deposits. If it's whole-house, the primary suspect is a failing Pressure Reducing Valve (PRV) on your main water line. It could also be a municipal water main issue or, in older homes, severe corrosion inside galvanized steel pipes restricting flow.

No. Absolutely not. The term "flushable" simply means it will fit down the toilet hole. Unlike toilet paper, these wipes do not disintegrate in water. They catch on tiny snags in your sewer line, bind with fats and greases (creating a "fatberg"), and are the number one cause of horrific, expensive main sewer line backups.

When temperatures drop to -15°F in Iowa, leave your cabinet doors open under sinks on exterior walls to allow warm house air to reach the pipes. Disconnect all exterior garden hoses before winter to prevent the sillcock from bursting inward. If extreme cold is prolonged, leave a pencil-lead-thin drip running at the furthest faucet from where the water enters your home to keep water moving.

Yes. The Midwest is notorious for hard water (high levels of calcium and magnesium). Over time, this scale calcifies inside your dishwasher, washing machine, and water heater, significantly reducing their lifespan and efficiency. A high-quality water softener pays for itself by extending the life of your water-using appliances and plumbing fixtures.

This usually happens in a guest bathroom sink or basement floor drain that is rarely used. The "U-shaped" pipe underneath (the P-trap) is designed to hold a small pool of water, which acts as a barrier against sewer gas pushing up into the house. If the drain isn't used, that water simply evaporates. Pouring a gallon of water down the drain reconstitutes the seal.

If your home was built before 1960 and still has galvanized steel plumbing, or built in the 1980s with defective Polybutylene piping, spot-fixing is a losing battle. The pipes are deteriorating from the inside out. One catastrophic burst while you are at work will cause more drywall and flooring damage than the cost of a complete preventative PEX repipe.

Every homeowner must know this. It is generally located in the basement, on the wall facing the street, near your water meter. Look for a gate valve (wheel) or a ball valve (lever). Test it once a year. If a pipe bursts upstream, you have seconds to turn off the water to prevent thousands of dollars in property damage. Do not wait for an emergency to go looking for it.